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Showing posts from July, 2024

Day ten - Cologne and the journey back home

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There was only one way to end this holiday, and that was climbing the 533 steps (97 metres) of Cologne Cathedral's tower. It's not an easy climb, but well worth it for the views across the city. Never stop litter picking! A spot of lunch and we were set for the few hours' travelling back to the UK after a real insight into some great European cities.

Day nine - Berlin to Cologne

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Our hotel was less than a mile from the railway station, with a lovely walk through the Tiergarten to Hauftbanhof reminding us why train travel is so much more pleasurable than flying. We wandered through the park, then through the station and onto the train, with our tickets (and Interrail passes) only checked once, we were well on our four hour way to Cologne. Another day spent wandering the streets - Cologne is such a beautiful city and it was a great place to end this holiday. We even found a great vegan restaurant right near the river. Having done boat trips in Copenhagen, Malmo and Berlin, we resisted the temptation to cruise the Rhein, but it was close. 

Day eight - Berlin

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Today began with a walk past Berlin's Intercontinental Hotel that was my home for several weeks while working on ‘The Wall’ Berlin 1990. Although much extended, the hotel was recognisably the same, although much of Berlin has changed considerably since my first visit 34 years ago. First stop was Schweizes cafe to meet with pianist and composer Craig Urquhart. We had a long chat, but I recorded a snippet for my podcast - Harmonious World . Craig Urquhart and I take a break from discussions (and tea) The weather was glorious, so we took a walk back to the German Resistance Museum, where we realised that our hotel overlooks the window to German army officer Claus von Stauffenberg’s office, where he planned the attempted assassination of Adolf Hitler on 20 July 1944. It was chilling to think of how much he risked and sacrificed in his attempt to bring peace to the world. Looking across to our hotel from von Stauffenberg's office I can highly recommend walking around Berlin, and we ...

Day seven - Berlin

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Apparently, it rained while we toured the Neue Museum in Berlin, enjoying some modern art. We were fortunate to miss the downpour and enjoyed a walk across to Museum Island. First stop was at Berlin Cathedral with a walk up the dome to enjoy spectacular views across the city. As I descended into the body of this incredible building, the organ was playing - and what an organ it is! 7,269 pipes, 113 stops and four manuals, and it sounded like the organist was trying them all out in their various permutations. Stunning to both look at and listen to, this was a real treat on a Sunday afternoon. As we wandered back along the river in the direction of the imposing Reichstag and surrounding modern government buildings, we opted for another boat trip - the third in just a few days, although the only one with a disappointing recorded voice, rather than a more engaging and entertaining live guide, such as those in Copenhagen and Malmo. In any case, it was a lovely way to spend an hour and to get...

Day six - Copenhagen to Berlin

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A long travel day that included a brief stop over in Hamburg to change trains. We left our hotel in Copenhagen just after 8am and, although we'd been warned about disruption on the German train services, our experience could hardly have been better. Arrival in Berlin coincided with the city’s Pride march, with hundreds of people on the streets and in the restaurants. On arrival at our hotel, we discovered that the view from our (palatial) room looks out over the German Resistance Museum, which is definitely on our list to visit in the three days we’re here. Both Richard and I have spent time in Berlin over the years, but so much has changed that there is still plenty we want to see. 

Day five - Malmo and Copenhagen

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Today began for us with a bus from Copenhagen across the Oresund bridge into Sweden. Pity the poor tourists who had forgotten their passports and were removed at the border by Swedish police. Apart from the resulting delay to the bus, it was a relatively swift crossing and we arrived into Malmo just in time for a boat trip around the canals. On a wander around the city centre, we chanced upon the Form Design Museum which hap popped upon an earlier TripAdvisor search. It was a simple but beautiful place, with examples of work by students at the university, as well as some more sophisticated pieces. And great vegan snacks. The train return journey to Copenhagen was quicker but offered less good views, especially of the crossing. However, a walk around Copenhagen’s impressive Botanic Garden through to the National Museum was a great way to spend the late afternoon. Copenhagen combines nature and art

Day four - Copenhagen

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Copenhagen has so much to offer and today was spent wandering around some of the areas we had seen by bus and finding some new sights. My highlights of the day - and possibly the entire trip - we’re the view from the top of the spire at Our Saviours Church and the calligraphy exhibition in the David Collection. A snail made from waste that can’t be recycled  Christiania is the most bohemian, anarchic area of Copenhagen and it’s well worth a visit. They have an innovative recycling scheme and are developing the area, but as a collective and it seems to be taking some time. Somehow, visiting is something of an intrusion into the way of life going back decades, where people have lived communally and a little off-grid  it’s somewhere you would either love to live or a place of insecurity and anarchy. I think I’d enjoy it for a while, but would gradually crave my creature comforts. The second visit of the day was to Church of Our Saviour, which has a stunning tower, but also a rema...

Day three - Copenhagen

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A pleasant first day in the city of Copenhagen, so we started with a bus trip to experience the city as a whole and get our bearings. Thereafter, we wandered the streets - there’s so much to see. First stop: the Little Mermaid Close to the Little Mermaid statue that is one of the most iconic sights in a Copenhagen lies the Churchill Park, with the beautiful little Anglican Church dedicated to St Alban. Across the corner of the park sits the newly-renovated Danish Resistance Museum, which I cannot recommend highly enough. Focusing on a few Danes and their stories during the German invasion, the museum is a brilliant taste of life at this most difficult time. Not always easy to read or hear about, there is an extensive collection of exhibits that bring the period to life and makes visitors wonder what they would have done in that situation. With a couple of stops along the way, most of the afternoon was spent in the extraordinary David Collection. There are two floors of representations ...

Day two - Hamburg to Copenhagen

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Not the most exciting day. A six hour journey on a ‘proper’ long distance train. No cafe but great Wi-Fi. Huge windows that gave an excellent view, albeit in the rain. The hotel in Copenhagen is a typical city centre base, but just off the beaten track, clean and comfortable. I’s always an unknown, when you’re searching the internet for hotel deals and don’t know the city very well (I’ve only visited once, and that was five years ago) but the Wide Hotel is definitely a winner,

Day one - Hitchin to Hamburg via Brussels and Cologne

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Another Interrail adventure begins with a long journey from home to Hamburg. One delayed train meant a later arrival than planned, but we arrived at our cute hotel just around the corner from the central station. Central Hotel Bel Etage was another jewel discovered on the internet and a good way to start the holiday. Train travel agrees with me Today was a day of five trains - the most complicated of our itinerary for this expedition. We booked all the journeys in advance, with hotels selected that will hopefully all turn out to be as good as tonight’s is. Afternoon tea in the shadow of Cologne cathedral Train travel is a more relaxing way to travel and everything went to schedule except the penultimate journey from Cologne to the outskirts of Hamburg. At least we were constantly kept informed by the rail company. A tiring day, but heading for a restful holiday has already begun.

Obsessed with Chopin - Marina Arsenijevic

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Chatting with Marina Arsenijevic for the latest episode of Harmonious World  was a joy, just as it was nearly two years ago when we chatted before about her Tesla Rhapsody   Marina’s piano playing is simply entrancing and chatting about it was insightful: her obsession is understandable and obvious in her playing.  Of course, Marina has some exciting projects upcoming and no doubt we’ll be able to chat about one or more of those soon. 

Lizz Wright: 'Shadow'

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  One of my favourite albums of 2024 - read the full review on KindOfJazz This is another absolutely extraordinary album from a great crop of music released so far in 2024. 

DownBeat Magazine's August 2024 Critics Poll

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So many of this year's winners of the DownBeat Magazine's Critics Poll have appeared on Harmonious World, as well as runners-up too numerous to mention. Congratulations to some of these legends: Bass: Christian McBride Big Band: Maria Schneider Orchestra Composer: Maria Schneider Soprano Sax: Jane Ira Bloom Rising Star Big Band: Arturo O'Farrill and the Latin Jazz Ensemble Do click through to hear our conversations around their brilliant work.

'The Last Day of Summer' and mutual friends

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It's incredible that my path has never crossed with that of Jeff Slate - we have mutual friends and musical experiences going back too long to calculate. It was a joy to chat with him for Harmonious World about his album The Last Day of Summer , which is out now. Alongside the conversation, you can hear extracts from The Last Day of Summer, and I hope you enjoy listening in. Thank you for listening to Harmonious World. Please rate, review and share: click on the link and become a subscriber . to support the show. Don't forget the Quincy Jones quote that sums up why I do this: "Imagine what a harmonious world it would be if every single person, both young and old, shared a little of what he is good at doing."

A review of Love Supreme for 'The Riff'

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You can read a full review of Love Supreme's Saturday on The Riff , with my snap of Billy Cobham and his extraordinary band. Billy Cobham with his 'Spectrum 50' outfit

Dermot Rogers discusses a new re-release from Louis Stewart

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The latest episode of Harmonious World features record producer Dermot Rogers. This is my second chat with record producer  Dermot Rogers , around the new re-release of  Louis The First  from Irish jazz guitarist  Louis Stewart . Alongside the conversation, you can hear extracts from Louis The First , as well as exciting news about plans for the future re-release of more work by this illustrious guitarist, who passed away eight years ago. Thank you for listening to Harmonious World. Please rate, review and share: click on the link and subscribe to support the show. Don't forget the Quincy Jones quote that sums up why I do this: "Imagine what a harmonious world it would be if every single person, both young and old, shared a little of what he is good at doing." Support the Show. Thanks for listening to Harmonious World. You can support the show by  becoming a subscriber .

Gallowstreet: 'A Trip Worth making'

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The extraordinary new album from Amsterdam-based Gallowstreet is truly intense. As a bari sax player and a listener who is always drawn to the richness of big bands and brass bands, A Trip Worth Making delivers in spades.  One of the best things about having a global audience for my writing and my podcast ( Harmonious World , if you've missed it!) is discovering new artists that I might otherwise have missed. This Gallowstreet CD has been sitting on my shelf awaiting review and I'm only disappointed that I've waited so long to give it a listen. There's something about Gallowstreet's combination of brass, hip hop beats and electronics that crosses all genres but sits firmly within contemporary jazz for its inventive combination of writing, arrangements and improvisation. There's a bari sax player (Dirk Zandvliet) who doubles on flute, as well as tenor sax, three trombones and two trumpet/flugelhorn players, but at the heart of the sound of A Trip Worth Making is...

One Jazz - going strong just a few weeks in

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For co-creators Chris Phillips and Jez Nelson MBE, the new  One Jazz  platform is an altruistic proposition. One of the big advantages of the digital world in which we live is the ability for people like Chris and Jez to launch the equivalent of a brand new radio station, and for them to provide content their listeners will love. One Jazz can be streamed anywhere in the world and it’s even available as an Alexa skill, for those ubiquitous boxes around our homes and workspaces. For those of us familiar with their work on radio and at live events, both Chris and Jez seem to live and breathe finding great music and sharing it with a passion that is palpable. I chatted with Chris at Love Supreme, when One Jazz was already becoming a valuable force in music. He explained what had sparked this new project: "One Jazz is all about creating a conversation, Our music is underserved and it’s not making its way into the wider culture: we are both artists at heart and want to right that wr...

Harmonious World at Love Supreme - bonus episode

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The quality of music at this year's  Love Supreme  was just outstanding. I've produced a brief taster for this  Harmonious World bonus episode . I managed to chat about the correlation between comedy and jazz with Marcus Brigstocke , which was fun. There will be reviews to come on both The Riff and KindOfJazz . For now, here are a few snaps: Sananda Maitreya (formerly Terence Trent d'Arby) My Saturday highlight - Billy Cobham Chatting with my pal and JazzFM presenter Simon Phillips Dionne Warwick was very chilled The wonderful Olatuja Ursa Major, with Christian McBride Rosie Frater-Taylor

Catching up with Rosie Frater-Taylor

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I caught up with Rosie Frater-Taylor backstage at Love Supreme Festival. We'd already met in May at The Pheasantry in London's Kings Road as part of Nigel Williams' series for Jazz FM. HS and Rosie Frater-Taylor When we met on Saturday at Love Supreme, Rosie was enjoying a day at the festival before her own band appeared on the Supreme Standards stage on Sunday evening. Just a few days before, she had helped launch Sean Khan's album with The Modern Folk and Jazz Ensemble, on Acid Jazz. Since appearing with her band at the Pheasantry (one of the coolest venues in the Pizza Express live family), Rosie had also played Brighton's The Great Escape festival and the Edinburgh fringe.  As well as her own album - Featherweight  - she has also appeared with Redtenbacher's Funkestra on their Masterlink Sessions. She had certainly earned a day off, listening to other people's shows. Collaborations seem to be one of Rosie's strengths, as she develops her own style...

My discovery of Love Supreme (so far)

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Having just spent a pleasant half hour in the cool sunshine at Love Supreme, I can safely assert one of my discoveries of the weekend, in the shape of blues guitarist and vocalist Christone ‘Kingfish’ Ingram . Kingfish, as he apparently likes to be known, absolutely owned the main stage with his incredible band. He may be young, but he is definitely one to watch. Although predominantly blues, his music crosses all genres, particularly when he sings. He’s also surrounded himself with similarly adept musicians to produce a huge sound that sits lovingly behind and alongside Kingfish’s guitar. This set was a surprise and a great one.