Looking south from the road to Adele There's something rewarding about leaving the hubbub of the hotel behind and hiking up into the hills outside Rethymnon. Seeing more of the Cretan countryside makes me love this island more. Within five minutes, the poolside babble had faded into silence, with just the wind through the ubiquitous olive trees to accompany me. Despite my walk taking me along a well made road, there were few cars and no passing pedestrians. I realised I'd failed to bring any water and stopped at a lonely petrol station. The owner joined me briefly between customers while I drank and he smoked. He had no English and I have little Greek, but it was a pleasant pause on my walk. In the lovely village of Adele, I found a traditional workshop that didn't seem to have many visitors. While I browsed, the owner stitched at an elderly sewing machine. Ancient crafts in Adele As I showed an interest in her ancient loom, she beamed and showed ...