Away from the madd(en)ing crowds

Looking south from the road to Adele

There's something rewarding about leaving the hubbub of the hotel behind and hiking up into the hills outside Rethymnon. Seeing more of the Cretan countryside makes me love this island more.

Within five minutes, the poolside babble had faded into silence, with just the wind through the ubiquitous olive trees to accompany me. Despite my walk taking me along a well made road, there were few cars and no passing pedestrians. I realised I'd failed to bring any water and stopped at a lonely petrol station. The owner joined me briefly between customers while I drank and he smoked. He had no English and I have little Greek, but it was a pleasant pause on my walk.

In the lovely village of Adele, I found a traditional workshop that didn't seem to have many visitors. While I browsed, the owner stitched at an elderly sewing machine.

Ancient crafts in Adele

As I showed an interest in her ancient loom, she beamed and showed me its intricacies. Her strategy worked and my fascination converted to consumerism, as I bought a tablecloth to remind me of my visit when I return to colder climes.

The walk back took me on a circuitous route through olive groves and frequent forks where left or right was the only decision.

It was only on my return to the hotel that I found this leaflet.

I'd walked most of this route, by accident.

This is the ninth time I've stayed at the beautiful Aquila Rithymna Beach hotel and yet it's the first time I've explored the surrounding area on foot. Very rewarding it was, too.